Pumpkin Table Runner Crochet Pattern
This free pumpkin table runner crochet pattern makes a 40-inch cream runner in open filet mesh, with a scalloped orange edge and a harvest cluster at each pointed end. One end gets the big cluster, with three ribbed pumpkins, and the other gets a smaller echo with two. Both have maple and green leaves, berries, little cream flowers and curly tendrils, all sewn right onto the mesh. You'll need about 620 yards of worsted cotton in 7 colors, a 5 mm and a 4 mm hook, and 17 to 20 hours in total.
Key Takeaways
- Runner: one piece of filet mesh (dc, ch 1), 20 meshes wide, with a triangle point at each end.
- Border: 4 rounds: sc, dc, 7-dc shells in cream, then a round of orange sc.
- Two clusters: a big one with 3 pumpkins at one end, and a small one with 2 pumpkins at the other.
- Budget ~620 yd (570 m) of worsted #4 cotton. About 310 yd is the cream runner.
Why I love this runner
My autumn leaves table runner is all leaves and no base. This one is the opposite. It's a proper runner you can set plates next to, with the fall decorations gathered at the two ends where they won't get in the way. I like the ends unequal: a full cluster at the end that faces the room, and a lighter one at the far end, so the eye travels down the table. The middle stays flat and open, so a candle tray or a bread board sits on it without wobbling.
The mesh is the relaxing part. It's one row repeat, dc and ch 1, and after two rows you won't need to look at the pattern. The fun comes at the end, when the pumpkins and leaves go on and the runner suddenly looks like a harvest table.
It's also a good project to split up. The runner is a September job. The pumpkins and leaves travel well, so I make them in the car, at appointments and in front of the TV.
Skill level. Easy. You need chains, slip stitches, sc, hdc, dc and tr, plus a simple bobble. Everything is worked flat or in short rounds, and the pumpkins are rectangles, not amigurumi in the round.
What you'll need
Yarn: worsted #4 cotton, such as Lily Sugar 'n Cream (about 120 yd / 71 g per solid-color ball). Cotton keeps the mesh square, the scallops crisp and the leaf points sharp.
| Color | Used for | Amount |
|---|---|---|
| Cream | Runner, border rounds 1–3, 5 flower sprigs | about 310 yd (3 balls) |
| Pumpkin orange | Border round 4, 2 large pumpkins, 1 maple leaf | about 120 yd (2 balls) |
| Mustard | 3 small pumpkins, 2 maple leaves | about 85 yd (1 ball) |
| Rust | 3 maple leaves | about 40 yd (1 ball) |
| Olive green | 8 leaves, 6 tendrils | about 30 yd (1 ball) |
| Burgundy | 25 berries | about 25 yd (1 ball) |
| Chocolate brown | 5 pumpkin stems | about 12 yd (1 ball) |
I worked those amounts out from the stitch counts, including sewing tails. Plan on 580 to 680 yd in total, depending on your tension. The leftovers are perfect for extra leaves.
Hooks and notions
- 5 mm (US H-8) hook for the runner and border.
- 4 mm (US G-6) hook for the pumpkins, leaves and berries. The smaller hook keeps them firm.
- A tapestry needle, scissors and a stitch marker.
- About 50 g of polyester fiberfill for the pumpkins.
- Pins, and a towel or foam board to lay the runner on.
Gauge and finished size
With the 5 mm hook, 8 meshes and 8 rows = 4 in (10 cm) in filet mesh. So each mesh is about half an inch square. If yours are bigger, go down half a hook size. If the mesh looks squashed, go up.
Finished runner: about 13.5 in (34 cm) wide and 40 in (102 cm) long, point to point, border included. The mesh body is 10 in wide and 28 in long, and each pointed end adds 4.5 in.
Abbreviations (US crochet terms)
- ch = chain
- sl st = slip stitch
- sc = single crochet
- hdc = half double crochet
- dc = double crochet
- tr = treble crochet
- dc2tog = double crochet 2 together
- inc = 2 sc in the same stitch
- BLO = back loop only
- MR = magic ring
- st(s) = stitch(es)
- rnd(s) = round(s)
- sp = space
Mesh: One mesh is a dc, a ch 1 and the next dc. Every row is: ch 4 (counts as the first dc and ch 1), dc in the next dc, then ch 1, dc in the next dc across.
Picot: Ch 3, sl st in the 3rd ch from the hook.
5-dc bobble: *Yarn over, insert the hook in the stitch, yarn over and pull up a loop, yarn over and pull through 2 loops. Repeat from * 4 more times in the same stitch (6 loops on the hook). Yarn over and pull through all 6 loops.
UK crocheters: this pattern uses US terms. US single crochet = UK double crochet, US half double = UK half treble, US double = UK treble, US treble = UK double treble.
The pieces at a glance
| Piece | Make | Hook | Color |
|---|---|---|---|
| Runner (mesh body and 2 points) | 1 | 5 mm | cream |
| Border | 4 rounds | 5 mm | cream, then orange |
| Large pumpkin | 2 | 4 mm | orange |
| Small pumpkin | 3 | 4 mm | mustard |
| Pumpkin stem | 5 | 4 mm | brown |
| Maple leaf | 6 | 4 mm | 3 rust, 1 orange, 2 mustard |
| Green leaf | 8 | 4 mm | olive |
| Berry | 25 (5 clusters of 5) | 4 mm | burgundy |
| Flower sprig | 5 | 4 mm | cream |
| Tendril | 6 | 4 mm | olive |
How the motifs split between the two ends:
| Big end | Small end | |
|---|---|---|
| Pumpkins | 1 large + 2 small | 1 large + 1 small |
| Maple leaves | 2 rust, 1 orange, 1 mustard | 1 rust, 1 mustard |
| Green leaves | 5 | 3 |
| Berry clusters | 3 | 2 |
| Flower sprigs | 3 | 2 |
| Tendrils | 4 | 2 |
The pattern — step by step
Part 1 — The mesh body
With the 5 mm hook and cream:
- Foundation: Ch 44.
- Row 1: Dc in the 6th ch from the hook. The 5 skipped chains count as the first dc, a ch 1 and a skipped ch. Ch 1, skip 1 ch, dc in the next ch. Repeat from * to * across. (20 meshes, 21 dc)
- Row 2: Ch 4, turn. Dc in the next dc. Ch 1, dc in the next dc. Repeat across, working the last dc into the top of the turning chain: on Row 2 that's the 4th of the 5 skipped chains, and from Row 3 on it's the 3rd ch of the ch-4. (20 meshes)
- Rows 3–56: Repeat Row 2. (20 meshes)
Don't fasten off. The body should measure about 10 in wide and 28 in long. Count the meshes on every few rows. If you have 19 or 21, you missed the turning chain at one end.
Part 2 — The pointed ends
Each point is a triangle that loses one mesh at each side on every row. It takes 9 rows to go from 20 meshes to 2.
Decrease row: Turn. Sl st in the first dc, in the next ch-1 sp and in the next dc. That moves you across one mesh. Ch 4 (counts as dc and ch 1), dc in the next dc. Ch 1, dc in the next dc. Repeat across until one mesh is left, ending with a dc in the second-to-last dc. Leave the last mesh unworked. (2 meshes fewer than the row before)
First point: Carry on from the last row of the body.
- Rows 1–9: Work the decrease row 9 times. (18, 16, 14, 12, 10, 8, 6, 4, 2 meshes)
- Fasten off.
Second point: Turn the runner around so the foundation chain is at the top, RS facing.
- Row 1: Skip the first mesh. Join cream with a sl st at the base of the 2nd dc of Row 1. Ch 4 (counts as dc and ch 1). Dc at the base of the next dc. Ch 1, dc at the base of the next dc. Repeat across until one mesh is left, ending at the base of the second-to-last dc. (18 meshes)
- Rows 2–9: Work the decrease row 8 times. (16, 14, 12, 10, 8, 6, 4, 2 meshes)
- Fasten off and weave in all the ends.
The two points should match: 9 rows each, with 2 meshes at the tip.
Part 3 — The scalloped border
Work the border in the round, with the 5 mm hook. Start at one tip each round.
Rnd 1 (cream): Join cream in the center dc at the tip of one point. Ch 1. Sc evenly around the whole runner:
- across each tip: 1 sc in each dc and each ch-1 sp, with 3 sc in the center dc;
- 2 sc along the side of each dc row;
- 2 sc across each unworked mesh on the stepped edges of the points.
Join with a sl st to the first sc.
Rnd 2 (cream): Ch 3 (counts as a dc). Dc in each sc around, with 5 dc in the center sc at each tip and 2 dc in the sc at each of the 4 corners where a point meets a long side. Join with a sl st to the top of the ch-3.
Count Rnd 2 now. For the shells to land evenly, you need a multiple of 12. If you're over or under, fix it on the long sides: a dc2tog to lose 1 stitch, or 2 dc in one stitch to add 1. Split the fix between the two long sides, so both halves of the runner match.
Rnd 3 (cream, shells): Sl st into the center dc of one tip. Ch 3 (counts as a dc), 6 dc in the same st. Skip 2 sts, sc in the next st, skip 2 sts, 7 dc in the next st. Repeat around, ending with skip 2, sc in the next st, skip 2. Join with a sl st to the top of the ch-3. Fasten off cream. Each 7-dc shell is one scallop.
Rnd 4 (orange): Join orange in the first dc of any shell. Sc in each of the 7 dc of the shell, sl st in the sc between shells. Repeat around. Join and fasten off.
The sl st in each valley pulls the orange edge in, so each scallop reads as a separate curve. Block the runner now: pin it out flat on a towel, mist it with water and let it dry. The mesh opens up into neat squares.
Part 4 — Pumpkins and stems
The pumpkins are rectangles worked in rows of sc through the back loop. The BLO ridges become the ribs of the pumpkin, running from the stem to the base. With the 4 mm hook:
Large pumpkin (make 2, orange):
- Foundation: Ch 17.
- Row 1: Sc in the 2nd ch from the hook and in each ch across. (16 sc)
- Rows 2–36: Ch 1, turn. Sc in BLO of each st across. (16 sc)
- Fasten off, leaving a 24-in (60 cm) tail.
Small pumpkin (make 3, mustard): Work as the large pumpkin, but ch 13 (12 sc) and work 26 rows. Leave a 20-in (50 cm) tail.
Shape each pumpkin:
- Close the tube. Fold the rectangle so the foundation chain meets the last row. Whipstitch them together with the long tail. You now have a short, ribbed tube.
- Gather the top. Keep the same tail. Weave it in and out around one opening, through the end of every row. Pull it tight to close the top, and knot it.
- Stuff and close. Stuff firmly, but keep it squat, not round. Thread a separate 18-in (45 cm) strand around the other opening, pull it tight and knot it. That's the base.
- Make the sections. With the tail still attached at the top, go straight down through the center and out the base. Bring the yarn up the outside and back down through the center. Pull it snug so it makes a dent. Repeat around: 6 sections for a large pumpkin and 5 for a small one. Tie off at the base.
Stem (make 5, brown): The magic ring is the top of the stem. The open end is sewn to the pumpkin.
- Rnd 1: MR, 6 sc in the ring. (6) Work in continuous rounds.
- Rnds 2–4: Sc in each st around. (6)
- Sl st in the next st and fasten off, leaving a 10-in (25 cm) tail.
Sew the open end of each stem over the gathered top of a pumpkin. Tilt it a little to one side as you sew. A slightly bent stem looks much more real than a straight one.
Part 5 — Leaves, berries, sprigs and tendrils
All with the 4 mm hook.
Maple leaf (make 6: 3 rust, 1 orange, 2 mustard):
- Rnd 1: MR, ch 1, 9 sc in the ring. Pull the ring closed and join with a sl st to the first sc. (9 sc)
- Rnd 2: Ch 1, inc in each st around. Join. (18 sc)
- Rnd 3 (points and stem): The 18 sts make 6 sections of 3 sts. Work them in this order:
- Stem: sl st in the next st, ch 7, sl st in the 2nd ch from the hook and in each of the next 5 ch, sl st in the same st on the leaf, sl st in each of the next 2 sts.
- Small lower point: sc in the next st, (hdc, dc, ch 2, dc, hdc) in the next st, sc in the next st.
- Large side point: sc in the next st, (dc, tr, picot, tr, dc) in the next st, sc in the next st.
- Top point: sc in the next st, (dc, 2 tr, picot, 2 tr, dc) in the next st, sc in the next st.
- Large side point: as section 3.
- Small lower point: as section 2.
- Sl st into the first sl st to join. Fasten off, leaving an 8-in (20 cm) tail next to the stem.
Two-tone maple (optional): Work Rnds 1–2 in orange and Rnd 3 in rust. The center glows and the points stay dark, like a real October leaf.
Green leaf (make 8, olive):
- Ch 9. Sc in the 2nd ch from the hook, hdc in the next ch, dc in each of the next 3 ch, hdc in the next ch, sc in the next ch. In the last ch, work (sc, ch 2, sc) for the tip.
- Now work along the other side of the chain: sc in the next ch, hdc in the next ch, dc in each of the next 3 ch, hdc in the next ch, sc in the last ch.
- Sl st to the first sc. Fasten off, leaving an 8-in (20 cm) tail at the base of the leaf.
Berry (make 25, burgundy): Leave a 6-in (15 cm) starting tail. Ch 3, work a 5-dc bobble in the 3rd ch from the hook, ch 1 to close. Fasten off, leaving a 6-in (15 cm) tail. Both tails come out of the base of the berry.
Berry cluster (make 5): Knot the tails of 5 berries together close to the berries, so they bunch up. Keep the tails for sewing. For a little stem, knot them onto the end of a 2-in (5 cm) olive chain instead.
Flower sprig (make 5, cream): Leave an 8-in (20 cm) starting tail. Ch 7 for the stem. Ch 4, sl st in the 7th ch of the stem (the last one before the ch-4). Repeat from * 4 more times, so 5 small loops fan out from the top of the stem like the petals of a little flower. Sl st back down the stem in the back bump of each of the other 6 ch. Fasten off and weave in that end. The starting tail at the bottom of the stem is for sewing.
Tendril (make 6, olive): Leave a 6-in (15 cm) starting tail. Ch 20. Sl st in the back bump of the 2nd ch from the hook and of each ch across. (19 sl st) Fasten off and weave in that end. Wind the cord around your finger into a loose curl, or twist it into a corkscrew, and it's ready to sew.
Part 6 — Arrange and sew the clusters
Lay the runner flat. Each end gets a cluster, centered on the point and spilling about 3 in onto the body. Build the big end first, then use it as your guide for the small one. Pin everything first and sew second. The mesh makes sewing easy, because there's always a hole where you need one.
Big end:
- Leaves first. Fan 4 maple leaves in a loose arc behind where the pumpkins will sit: 2 rust, 1 orange and 1 mustard, pointing out toward the edges. Tuck 5 green leaves between and below them. Sew each leaf through its base with its tail, 5 or 6 stitches deep, then add 2 small tacks near the tip so it lies flat.
- Pumpkins. Put the large pumpkin in the center, just above the tip. Set the 2 small pumpkins on either side, one a little higher than the other. Sew each one all the way around its base, going through the mesh and the bottom round of the pumpkin. Go around twice. They're the heaviest pieces and they get picked up.
- Berries. Tuck the 3 berry clusters into the gaps between the pumpkins and leaves. Sew each one down with its tails.
- Sprigs and tendrils. Slide the 3 flower sprigs so their little flowers peek out between the pumpkins. Pin the 4 tendrils in loose curls along the outer edge of the cluster. Sew each tendril with small stitches every half inch, following the curl.
- Lift test. Pick the runner up by the other end and let this end hang. Anything that flops needs one more tack. Weave in every tail on the back.
Small end: Work the same steps with fewer pieces: 2 maple leaves (1 rust, 1 mustard) and 3 green leaves, then 1 large pumpkin with 1 small pumpkin tucked beside it, 2 berry clusters, 2 flower sprigs and 2 tendrils. Keep it a little more compact than the big end, about 7 in across.
Care and safety. Hand wash in cool water, press the water out in a towel and dry flat, gently reshaping the scallops. Don't machine wash it, because the pumpkins can pull loose. The berries are small parts, so this is table decor, not a toy. And keep lit candles off the runner: cotton burns.
Make it yours — quick variations
| Variation | Change from base pattern |
|---|---|
| Longer table (about 52 in) | Work 80 rows of mesh instead of 56. Add about 75 yd cream and 10 yd orange. |
| Narrow table or dresser | Ch 36 for 16 meshes (8 in wide). Work 7 rows for each point, down to 2 meshes. Use 2 pumpkins at the big end and 1 at the small end. |
| One-end runner for a side table | Skip the small-end cluster and leave that point plain. You'll need about a third less motif yarn. |
| Two matching ends | Make the small end the same as the big end: add 1 small pumpkin, 2 maple leaves, 2 green leaves, 1 berry cluster, 1 sprig and 2 tendrils. Add about 60 yd. |
| Plain harvest runner | Skip the clusters and scatter a few loose crochet pumpkins along the mesh instead. |
Troubleshooting the three things that go wrong
The mesh leans to one side
This happens when the turning chain doesn't sit straight. Make sure the last dc of every row goes into the 3rd ch of the turning chain, not into the ch-1 space next to it. Blocking fixes a small lean.
The scallops ruffle or pull
If the border ruffles, Rnd 2 has too many stitches for the edge. If it pulls in and cups, it has too few. Go back to Rnd 1 and adjust the sc along the long sides first, since they're most of the edge. 2 sc per dc row suits most tension.
The pumpkins look round instead of squat
They're overstuffed, or the sections are loose. Take a little stuffing out through the base, then pull each section wrap tighter before you tie it off. Press the pumpkin down on the table for a few seconds, and it keeps a flatter shape.
Frequently asked questions
How long does this pumpkin table runner take to crochet? About 17 to 20 hours in total. The mesh body and points take 6 to 7 hours, and the border about 3. Each large pumpkin takes 45 minutes, a leaf 10 to 15 minutes and a berry about 3. Plan another 2 hours to arrange and sew the clusters. It splits nicely into evening sessions.
How much yarn do I need? About 620 yd (570 m) of worsted #4 cotton across 7 colors, including sewing tails. The cream runner and border take about 310 yd, and orange is next at about 120 yd. Brown uses the least, at about 12 yd. Three balls of cream and one or two of each other color cover the whole runner.
Can I make the runner without the decorations? Yes. The mesh runner with the scalloped edge is about 340 yd and 9 to 10 hours on its own. It works all year in cream and orange. You can add the pumpkins in October and snip them off after Thanksgiving, because they're only sewn on.
Can I use acrylic yarn instead of cotton? Yes, any worsted #4 yarn works. Acrylic is lighter and a little fuzzy, so the mesh looks softer and the leaf points rounder. The runner may shift more on the table, and it won't block as crisply. If you use acrylic, steam-block the border lightly instead of misting it.
Can I sell runners made from this pattern? Yes, you're welcome to sell finished runners, pumpkins and leaves made from this free pattern at markets, on Etsy or as gifts. Please credit "Pattern by Wavode" in your listing and link back to this page. What you can't do is republish this write-up or my photos as your own pattern.
Related patterns on Wavode
- Autumn leaves table runner: oak and maple leaves, acorns and berries on a winding vine, with no base fabric.
- How to crochet a pumpkin: the same no-increase rectangle trick, in a bigger size for shelves and porches.
- Crochet maple leaf pattern: a flatter one-piece leaf for garlands and cards.
- Crochet amigurumi acorns: kawaii acorns to scatter along the runner.
- Autumn patchwork Tunisian blanket: sage, mustard and terracotta squares for the couch.
Made this runner? Tag #wavodecrochet on Pinterest. I re-pin every finished make and credit the maker.
Pattern by Clara Hartwell for Wavode. Questions? Email me at support@wavode.com.
